Does Steve Gaynor Know how to Share Bridge Secrets?

You Betcha!!

 

SECRETS OF NEGATIVE DOUBLES

 

by Steven Gaynor

 

 

Negative doubles are used when the opponents interfere with your auction and make it difficult to bid your suits without misleading partner about your HCP or length of your best suits.  The player using the negative double usually has at least two places to comfortably play the hand with an emphasis on unbid majors.

 

 

Example:  You hold:  53, KQ98, K875, J54

 

 

Partner opens 1C, and your RHO bids 1S.  You rarely want to double 1S for penalties, so the double is called ‘negative’ meaning you have the unbid suits or, at least, the unbid major and about 7-10 HCP.  This would be a classic negative double situation.  It is most important to be disciplined in these hands so partner knows when to bid again or to pass.

 

 

When you have a longer suit, it is tempting to bid at the two level, but you run the danger of misleading partner about your strength.  There is a way to handle it – double, then bid your suit.  This shows extra length, but limited point count.

 

 

Take this quiz with your favorite partner(s).  Discuss your responses and come to agreements.  The suggested responses on the next page are based on the most common treatments among experienced Standard American partnerships.  Of course you may play anything you want, but these seem to work the best in the long run.

 

 

Partner opens 1C and RHO bids Spades.  What would you bid with:

 

 

                                                                              Over 1S                Over 2S

 

1. 53, KJ98,  854,  K965

 

2. AJT, KJT4,  32, Q654

 

3. 53, KQ9865,  32, Q54

 

4. A3, KQ9865, 32, Q54

 

5. 3, KQ9865,  QJ975, 2

 

6. AJT, KJ3, A5, K9743

 

7. J8754, Q98,  A54,  43

 

8. KQJT9, Q98, A5, Q54

 

 

 

 

 

SUGGESTED RESPONSES:

 

 

 

X = double

 

P = Pass

 

 

 

1. X - P. You have plenty to double over 1S.  If partner bids 2D you can go back to 3C.  If he bids hearts, you pass.  If he jumps to 3H you will go on for sure at IMP’s and probably would at matchpoints, too.  Over 2S this is probably the best hand you could hold and not make a negative double. 

 

2. X - X. With your near opener, you have enough to force to the 3 level. Over 3D you may try 3N with double stops in both majors and the likelihood of 5 Club tricks.

 

3. X - X. Doubling and then bidding a suit tells partner you do not have enough to bid your suit freely, but you have 5+ cards in it.  This is not forcing, nor should you ever entertain bidding hearts directly without at least 10 HCP, or at least a beefy 9.  Changing the CQ to the CA would justify a direct 2H call.

 

4. 2H - 3H. Here you have your direct heart bids at either level.  Partner will appreciate hand #4 for a direct heart call vs. hand #3.  A Spade bid now by partner would ask you for a stopper for a NT contract.

 

5. X - X. If partner rebids clubs, you bid hearts in either case.  Nothing you can do about a diamond fit if you have one.

 

6. 2S - 3S. Sometimes it is tough to bid good hands with interference.  You probably have a play for 6C and should aim for that eventually.  First, however, you need to find out more about partner’s hand.  The best way to do that is to cue bid and see what happens.  If you double, partner may jump in hearts, since you really should have 4 of them in any case.

 

7. 1N - P. Bidding 1N here shows your point count well and gives partner a clue as to what to do next (probably pass).  Over 2S, pass, and if partner reopens with a double, do not leave it in as your spades are not close to being good enough.  Over partner’s reopening X, 2N is your best call in that shows your values (6-9) and a stopper in their suit.  Partner should have a pretty good hand to reopen over 2S, and will carry on if appropriate.

 

8. P – P. Now you are out for blood.  If you get to defend a spade contract, you will start by drawing trumps and watch them go down a lot, probably more than the value of your game.